ChapterⅠ The Past and Present of Chaozhou Gongfu Tea
Flourished in the Ming and Qing Dynasties
Passed Down Through Generations
Chapter Ⅱ The Art and Beauty of Chaozhou Gongfu Tea
Pursuit of Elegance in the Tea Practice
Charm Embodied in the Tea Ceremony
Chapter Ⅲ The Rituals and Customs of Chaozhou Gongfu Tea
Serving Tea and the Etiquette
Poems and Songs Inspired by the Tea
Afterword
Acknowledgments
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Foreword
On November 29th, 2022, China’s nomination of “Traditional tea processing techniques and associated social practices in China” was evaluated and approved to be listed on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. This intangible cultural heritage (ICH) project encompasses 44 national-level ICH representative projects across 15 provinces, autonomous regions and municipalities in China, covering traditional tea-making techniques for six major types of tea and reprocessed teas, as well as social practices related to tea culture in different regions. The Art of Chaozhou Gongfu Tea, the sole contribution from Guangdong Province to the joint nomination, played an important role in achieving success in this bid.
Originating in northern Fujian Province during the Song Dynasty (960–1279), Gongfu Tea boasts a long history. It became popular in Zhangzhou, Quanzhou, Tingzhou of Fujian Province, and Chaozhou of Guangdong Province during the Qing Dynasty (1616–1911). By the late Qing Dynasty to early period of the Republic of China, it had become a prevalent custom in Chaoshan region. The name, Gongfu Tea, comes from Rock Tea, also known as Yancha (“yan” meaning rock, “cha” meaning tea) of Wuyi Mountain in Fujian, with toptier varieties being referred to as “Gongfu Tea” in records by Qing literati. The term “Gongfu” implies meticulousness, refinement, and the time-consuming and effort-intensive labor. The tea sets used for Gongfu Tea are exquisite, and their teapots and cups can be considered works of art. There are specialized tools for every step, including selecting tea leaves, boiling water, and placing the cups, each one crafted with great care and precision. The brewing technique for Gongfu Tea is intricate, designed to fully release the fragrance of highquality tea, ensuring that the brewed tea leaves a lingering aroma and a sweet aftertaste. The process involves up to 21 steps. It is said that in the old days, a well-respected tea house would employ “three and a half masters” ( three for making the tea and another half for brewing it), which underscores the fact that making Gongfu Tea is indeed an art that demands both skill and considerable efforts.
Gongfu Tea is an indispensable part of daily life for the local people in the Chaoshan region. Whether it’s for family reunions, friend gatherings, entertaining guests, business negotiations, or mediating disputes, Gongfu Tea serves as an important bridge in these interactions. From waiting for the water to boil to the completion of the brewing process, and then sipping the tea, these moments allow family members and friends to deepen their bonds, business partners to close deals, and conflicting parties to resolve their differences. The exquisite tea sets and unique brewing techniques of Gongfu Tea embody the core values of “harmony, respect, refinement and enjoyment”. These values align with the Chinese tea philosophy which searches for the unity of heaven and humanity, and they carry forward the traditional Chinese cultural virtues of harmonious coexistence, mutual respect, and the appreciation of elegance and joy.
“Drop by for tea whenever you’re free.” This phrase conveys more than a way of life, and it also embodies the fine tradition of the Chinese nation, characterized by humility, courtesy, and warm hospitality. It showcases the enduring charm of the East that has lasted for thousands of years to other people around the world.